THOMAS MOREY 2015 Chardonnay Burgundy France
This cuvée of Bourgogne Chardonnay comes from two equally sized plots of vines in the commune of Chassagne Montrachet. The first plot was planted in 1989 with material selected from the most robust old vines of the domaine. The second, planted in 2004, derives from select clones now growing on stony and gently sloping ground in the climat Pierres.
Very aromatic, with notes of white flowers and ripe white fruits. The mouth is both rounded and mineral, set off by a vivacity that signals lightness and youth. A fantastic pairing with apple sausages wrapped in puff pastry, veal sweetbreads with rémoulade, or soft and creamy cheeses.
Thomas Morey’s roots in Burgundy run very deep: he is tenth-generation in Chassagne-Montrachet. Having split his famous father Bernard Morey’s estate with his brother Vincent Morey upon Bernard’s retirement in 2005, he and his wife Sylvie built a cellar and bottled their first vintage in 2007. The current holdings total 13 hectares, 8 of those owned and 5 of them rented; their production is 65% white wine and 35% red, with annual production of a modest 5000 cases generally.
Morey bottles an impressive 8 different Chassagne crus (including a bit of red in Clos St. Jean), as well as very small amounts of Bâtard-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Truffières; there is also a little red from Beaune, Santenay and Maranges. Most of the vines were planted in the 1950’s and 1960’s, and replants are always done by selection massale. The farming is fully organic (not certified), with sparing use of copper and sulfur treatments and others only as needed. Harvest is entirely by hand.
The cellar work is traditional Burgundian. Fermentation takes places with indigenous yeasts and without sulfur at press, in a combination of neutral barrel and tank. Whites undergo malolactic fermentation and are kept on their lees--but without any stirring (bâtonnage)—in barrel of which a maximum of 20% is of new oak. Sulfur is added along the way in very small doses and not at bottling. Whites are gently filtered while reds are not.
Thomas Morey wines tend to fare well critically yet fly under the radar of Burgundy lovers. They are classically Burgundian, vigneron-raised and expressive of grape, terroir and vintage--rich in flavor, depth and texture yet balanced with naturally vibrant acidity and minerality and a restrained hand in the cellar.
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